England: A London Layover Tour

On our most recent trip to Europe, we were fortunate enough to be able to redeem our American Airlines miles for two round trip flights to Italy. Using our miles to pay for the flights greatly reduced the cost of the trip, but we did have to jump through a few hoops to make it happen.

When using airline specific miles, travel options are becoming increasingly limited. Direct international flights are virtually impossible to find. In order for us to get to Italy, we had to stay overnight in either London, Paris, or Madrid before we could catch a flight to Florence the following morning. Previous adventures had already taken us to Paris and Madrid, so we chose to take our extended layover in London, England. We picked a flight that gave us a full 24-hour layover to ensure that we would actually have enough time to enjoy the city.

At 6:00am on April 29, 2018, we arrived at London Heathrow, groggy from lack of sleep but excited to explore a new city. We dropped our luggage off at our airport-based hotel and jumped on the Underground for the hour-long ride into the city. We got off at Hyde Park Station and made our way to Buckingham Palace.

We arrived at Buckingham just in time to witness the Changing of the Guard. Hordes of people crushed against the gates trying to get a glimpse of the guards and their colorful uniforms. Since we arrived as the ceremony was taking place, we had no hope of competing with all the selfie-sticks or getting a front row view. We battled the crowds, took a selfie of our own, and passed irritated security guards as we traversed the area in front of the palace. As luck would have it, we ended up in the perfect location for viewing the guards as they finished the ceremony and exited the compound.

Aaron and Annie in front of Buckingham Palace London England
Aaron & Annie in front of Buckingham Palace

Next, we headed to Westminster Abbey, a church famous for hosting royal weddings and coronations over the centuries, including the coronation of the current Queen Elizabeth II and the 2011 wedding of the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge. A plethora of important historical figures are also entombed within its walls: King Henry VII, Queen Elizabeth I, and the two York princes who mysteriously disappeared from the Bloody Tower following the death of their father King Edward IV. Since our one-day layover tour occurred on a Sunday, the church was closed to tourists and we did not get to gaze upon the remarkable history within its walls.

Westminster Abbey London England
Westminster Abbey, London

We passed by London’s infamous red telephone booths and the double-decker buses as we headed toward the Thames River. Much to our disappointment, the clock tower of Big Ben was covered in scaffolding, which left only the face of the clock visible. Fate decided that we could not possibly get the full London experience without a dose of rainy, cold weather. As we arrived in front of Big Ben and the Parliament Building, the skies opened and unleashed a torrent of rain.

View of Big Ben and The Parliament Building from across the Thames River
Big Ben & The Parliament Building

We crossed the Thames River and began to walk toward the Tower of London, our main attraction for the afternoon. As we passed beneath the London Eye, the winds picked up and the lashing rain caused one of our umbrellas to snap in half. Resigned to a cold, windy day in the city, we popped in for two hot espressos before completing our walk to the Tower.

The Tower of London, founded in 1066 AD, is a historical gem in British history. It has served several roles over the centuries, most notably as a royal palace, a prison, and place of execution during the 16th and 17th centuries. The Tower is now a museum that preserves this rich history. It is also home to the Crown Jewels, a not-to-be-missed sight displaying an impressive collection of gemstones, precious metals, and ceremonial objects steeped in history.

We ventured through the White Tower, marveling at the building’s stonework and trying to imagine the castle bedecked in the palace finery of the Elizabethan era. We plunged into the bowels of the Bloody Tower to view the instruments of torture reserved for enemies of the state. Finally, we walked over the spot on the Tower Green where executions of noble prisoners took place, including that of the infamous Queen Anne Boleyn, the second wife of King Henry VIII.

The White Tower in the Tower of London
White Tower – Tower of London
View of Tower Bridge from Within the Walls of the Tower of London
Within the Walls of the Tower of London

All of this historical touring had worked up our appetites, so we decided to cross the Tower Bridge and find a traditional English Pub for dinner. Along the way, we whet our appetites with a cup of hot, roasted honey peanuts sold by a street vendor on Tower Bridge. The warmth and savory flavor of our appetizer was the perfect pick-me-up after a long day of touring outside in the elements.

Eventually, we did find a pub that suited our tastes and sat down for the most British of meals: beer and fish and chips.

With full bellies, we ventured back into the streets of London. Darkness was beginning to fall as we purchased two tickets for a boat ride on the Thames River, the last tourist activity of our layover tour of London. It was fascinating to imagine how the Vikings felt as they sailed up the very same river when they first arrived in the city in the 9th century. How different the city must have looked back then?

The London Eye Viewed from Thames River
The London Eye

As the boat glided smoothly across the water, I reflected on our brief taste of this magnificent city. Did we see enough? Did we experience the real London? Do we want to come back?

Our Takeaway from our time in London: I concluded that what really mattered is that we’d visited the city and allowed it to make its mark on us. No, we didn’t see or experience enough of what London has to offer. Of course, we’ll have to come back. Was our layover visit worth it? Totally.

-Annie, Your Friend at Orange Backpack Travel

Malaysia: Travel Day Nightmare

Anyone who has ever passed through an airport knows that travel days are, at the very least, exhausting. After a good travel day, the excitement of arriving allows people to overcome their fatigue and hit the ground running. On the other hand, after a particularly rough travel day, the phrase “Never again!” is mostly likely to be on the tip of one’s tongue.

This is a story about a horrific travel day experience where we went through the emotional wringer and learned a few valuable lessons along the way.

We began the day in Siem Reap, Cambodia. It was hot and humid, our backpacks pressing our clothing into our sweat-soaked skin, but we were in good spirits after touring the Angkor Temple Complex for the past three days. We were looking forward to the next portion of our trip in Bali, Indonesia. But first we had to get there…

We entered the terminal at Siem Reap-Angkor International Airport and proceeded to Air Asia’s check-in counter. We presented our passports and handed over our checked luggage: one large wheelie suitcase and a duffle bag. Little did we know that Air Asia is a budget airline that has excessively strict baggage policies.

The lady behind the ticketing counter kindly told us that our bags were too heavy and that we would have to pay about $400 to take them with us. This sum was outrageous given that the total cost for both our tickets was less than $200. When we balked at the price, she suggested we rearrange our bags to make the heaviest a little lighter. If we could accomplish that, the price to check our bags would drop to $200. Not having much of a choice, we turned into “those people” – the suckers you occasionally see with all of their belongings strewn about the floor in front of the check-in counter.

We did manage to rearrange everything and paid the astronomical fee for our two bags, but the Air Asia agent wasn’t finished with us. Since we had transferred some of our belongings from our checked bags into our carry-on bags, she insisted that she weigh our carry-on bags as well, something we have never experienced in all our years of travelling. Surprise! Aaron’s carry-on was too heavy now too. After round two of being “those people” and shuffling items between our carry-on bags, we were finally handed our tickets and allowed to proceed through security.

Once we reached the gates, Aaron headed straight for the nearest bar and ordered an 8:00am scotch. It was not the best start to our travel day. We couldn’t imagine that it was about to get much worse.

Lesson One of the Day: Always check the baggage requirements for each airline before you depart on your trip.

We flew from Siem Reap to Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia without incident. However, when we inspected our tickets from Kuala Lumpur to Bali, we noticed they had completely switched our flights without informing us. Our arrival time in Bali was now five hours later than originally scheduled.

By now I had had it up to here with Air Asia and was determined to give them a piece of my mind. I marched us up to a customer service agent and, with great restraint, politely inquired why they would change our flight without telling us. The agent was exceedingly nice and told us she could rebook us on an earlier flight that would depart in four hours instead of seven. The only catch was that we had to go get our checked bags and re-check them in. Aaron suggested we just wait in the terminal for the later flight, but I was determined to get to Bali as fast as possible. So, against Aaron’s better judgment, we re-booked our flights and went to get our luggage.

What I had forgotten was that customs lay between us and our checked bags. The line at customs was huge. People slowly shuffled forward in lines that snaked around the over-heated room multiple times. I began to suspect that trying to catch the earlier flight was a colossal mistake.

After an hour of waiting, we got through customs and headed to the customer service area to pick up our bags. Upon arrival, we were told that they couldn’t find our bags and that we should return in an hour. At this point I burst into tears, fully realizing the disaster I had unwittingly brought upon us. Aaron came to my rescue and vehemently told them that we were not leaving without our bags. Apparently, that combination of emotions worked on Air Asia’s customer service team because within five minutes our bags were at our feet.

By now it was around noon in Kuala Lumpur’s bustling main departures terminal. The space had lofted, opaque ceilings allowing natural light to illuminate another series of endless lines as people checked in for their flights.

As we navigated the crowds toward yet another customer service line, my phone started ringing off the hook. When I finally dug it out of my bag and answered, my mother’s distress on the other end of the line was palpable. She had been using an online flight tracker to make sure our flight arrived safely when suddenly, according to the map, our flight disappeared mid-route between Kuala Lumpur and Bali. I reassured her that we were still safe, if not particularly happy, on the ground in Malaysia and explained that Air Asia had cancelled our original flight without warning. Her fears assuaged, I turned back to our current predicament: re-checking our luggage.

We made it to the correct customer service counter and got in line. Thirty minutes passed. Forty minutes passed. An hour passed, and there were still two families in front of us. This day had without doubt turned into the most horrible travel experience, and I knew that this portion of it was all my fault. The tears started to flow silently down my cheeks again. It didn’t help that Aaron was silently fuming and shooting me “I told you so…” glares every few minutes.

After an hour and a half, we made it to the front of the line, got our new boarding passes, and re-checked our luggage. Relief washed over us as the customs agent placed a second stamp in our passports, proving that we had indeed spent one day in Malaysia.

Lesson Two of the Day: Unless absolutely necessary, never rebook your flight mid-trip if it means you have to go through customs to collect and re-check your bags.

We were hungry and irritable, but back in the right section of the airport. We found a restaurant that appeared to be serving local cuisine and ordered a late lunch. We were sipping on fresh mango juice waiting for our meal when a rank odor reached our nostrils. We turned around to identify the source of the smell when the cook caught our eye and pointed at the two bowls on the counter. Aaron got up to retrieve our lunch and brought the unpleasant smell back with him. It turned out that we had both ordered the same dish, and whatever was in it did not have the most appetizing aroma.

Not wanting to offend anyone, we hesitantly took a few bites. From what we could tell, the bowl contained noodles, some sort of fermented fish, and a plethora of fiery hot peppers. It was a stretch too far for our Western taste palates.

Lesson Three of the Day: When ordering meals in a foreign country, especially when you can’t read the menu, make sure you each order a different dish in case one does not suit your taste buds.

We did finally arrive in Bali despite the chaos of our travel day. In hindsight, all of these troubles could have been avoided. The fact that all of them happened on the same day…Well, it makes for one heck of a story!

Ulun Danu Bratan Temple in Bali Indonesia
Ulun Danu Bratan Temple, Bali

Tell us about some of your travel day woes…

-Annie, Your Friend at Orange Backpack Travel