Category: Africa

Botswana: Safari – The Untold Story

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Chobe National Park:

Many people dream of going on safari. The idea of jumping in an open-sided safari vehicle and racing to see as many wild animals as possible is where most safari dreams begin.

As someone who had dreamed of experiencing a safari first hand for as long as I can remember, I was beyond thrilled when the stars finally aligned for us to take a trip to South Africa, Swaziland, Zimbabwe, and Botswana.

Herd of Elephants with Baby Elephants in Chobe National Park Botswana
Chobe, Botswana

Safari Wake Up Call:

Most safaris begin long before dawn with a brutally early wake up call at 4:00am. When the alarm sounded, I groaned, rolled my eyes, and thought to myself “I can’t believe I paid for this type of vacation!”

Bleary-eyed with our camera slung over my shoulder, my husband and I made our way down to breakfast in the hotel lobby. It turned out that breakfast meant a cup of tea and a to-go box of breakfast treats that we could eat on the drive to the park.

Hippo Wallowing in Mud Chobe National Park Botswana
Hippo Wallowing in the Mud

Traveling to Chobe National Park:

Temperatures in the early morning out in the African bush lean toward the cool side. The air felt even cooler as the wind whipped against my skin while the open-sided safari vehicle raced toward the park entrance. All thoughts of eating my boxed breakfast disappeared as I threw on every layer I had thought to bring and huddled against the cold.

Fortunately, the adrenaline rush fueled by a promising day of wildlife photography was more than enough to remind me why I signed up for a safari vacation.

Entrance Sign at Chobe National Park Kasane Botswana
Entrance of Chobe National Park

The Impala Lesson:

On our very first early morning safari drive, our first animal sighting was a small herd of impalas. We expressed our excitement with a series of “Ooohs, ahhhs, and Look at that!” and asked our driver to pull over so we could take photos.

He obliged, but he didn’t bother to hide his exasperation. He told us he would stop this one time specifically for impalas but that was it. He said they were so common that we would likely see hundreds more before the day was over.

We all happily snapped away, thrilled at photographing such a magnificent creature so close to the road.

Male Impala on Grassland in Chobe National Park
Male Impala

The further we drove into the park, the more we realized our guide was right. Impalas were everywhere!!! It dawned on us that our excitement over seeing our first impala was akin to being ecstatic over seeing a cow on the side of the road in the Midwest!

Breakfast on Safari:

When we finally did stop for-breakfast, it was the side-of-the-road quick bite variety. My appetite had long-since vanished with the excitement of the drive, but it was nice to enjoy a hot cup of tea provided by our guide.

Safari Guide Serving a Bush Breakfast in Chobe National Park Botswana
Breakfast in the Bush

I will admit that the boxed breakfast provided by the hotel went untouched at the bottom of the safari vehicle. Oh well. I suppose the lesson here is that sometimes meals get forgotten in the excitement of travel.

Photography on Safari:

Before we left for Southern Africa, I invested in a brand new Nikon DSLR camera with an extra 200mm zoom lens. They were totally worth it. I can’t stress enough how important it was to have that extra zoom.

The reasons for this are twofold: First, the zoom lens allowed me to capture photos of animals at a respectful distance. Second, the zoom lens served as a pair of binoculars, magnifying the wildlife for the best views possible.

Three Young Male Lions Seen on Safari in Chobe National Park
Young Male Lions

Safari Sunset Cruise:

Another option for viewing Africa’s stunning wildlife is by boat on a safari cruise. In Botswana, we were able to take several sunset safari cruises on the Chobe River in Chobe National Park.

In my opinion, a safari cruise is more relaxed than a safari drive. When viewing animals overland the ride can get quite bumpy due to imperfections in the road. The locals called this an “African Massage.” Sailing serenely on a river alleviates those discomforts entirely. Plus, on a boat we had the option to get up and move around for better views.

Even though we saw many of the same animals on the cruise and drive, I appreciated the different perspective of each. For example, on the boat we were able to get much closer to hippos, and we witnessed elephants swimming across the river.

Hippos Photographed on Sunset River Cruise on Chobe River Botswana
Hippos in the Chobe River
Sunset over Chobe River in Botswana
Sunset in Chobe National Park

Safari is Worth It!

Overall, despite the early mornings and sometimes uncomfortable conditions, I wholeheartedly believe that going on a safari is well worth the money and effort! It is unforgettable. If taking a safari is on your bucket list, I say “Go for it!”

-Annie, Your Friend at Orange Backpack Travel

Morocco: Sahara Desert Camping Experience

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As part of our tour of Morocco, we chose to spend some time in the Sahara Desert, the largest hot desert in the world which spans most of northern Africa. We started our journey in Fes and drove for an entire day to reach Erfoud, a town within one of the Sahara’s precious few oases and the date (the fruit!) capital of Morocco. As we left the mountains of Fes behind, the landscape transformed. Pine forests gave way to barren plateaus. Colorful mountains turned into tan monochromatic desert in every direction.

Like most people, I had pictured the Sahara as consisting mostly of sand dunes (thanks Hollywood!). However, only about 20% of the Sahara is covered by dunes. The rest consists of rocky, seemingly lifeless flatland occasionally interspersed with rugged plateaus. The scenery reminded me of southern Utah and the rugged desert of Canyonlands National Park.

Two Vehicles Driving in the Sahara Desert
Driving in the Sahara Desert

At one point, roughly 450 million years ago, this entire region was under water as evidenced by an enormous amount of sea life fossils left behind. In truth, this nautical environment was difficult to imagine. How could an entire ocean dry up and leave such barren rock and sand behind?

After a long day on the road, we gladly checked into our hotel, and were pleasantly surprised to find a mini golf course on the roof overlooking sand dunes in the distance. Naturally, we had to play. How many people get a chance to play mini golf while watching the sunset in the middle of the Sahara?

Mini Golf in the Sahara
Annie Playing Mini Golf in the Sahara

The next day, we jumped into a Toyota Land Cruiser and headed out to the Merzouga Sand Dunes. There are no roads in the dunes in the Sahara, but there are “flat” areas that are more navigable. Our driver clearly loved his job and was determined to show us a good time. He kept driving “off-road” over the dunes giving us a rollercoaster four-wheeling experience. The most thrilling part was when the car drove over the top of the dune and the sand gave way pulling the car down with it!

An hour later we arrived at the tent camp. The camp consisted of maybe two dozen tents laid out in a square pattern all connected by plush Moroccan carpets so that (God forbid!) we didn’t have to walk on the sand to reach our tent. The interior of our tent was even more surprising. It was equipped with a king size bed, a couch and coffee table, a sink where a tea kettle provided water, a Western-style toilet that flushed, and a shower with hot, running water. How running water was provided in the middle of nowhere, I have no idea. Clearly, this was designed to be more of a “glamping” experience than a “rough-it-in-the-desert” one.

Luxury Camp Accommodations in Sahara Desert Morocco
Our Camp!

Our Sahara adventure continued with a camel ride further into the dunes. For those who have never ridden a camel before, allow me to explain how it works. First, the camel kneels allowing you to swing your leg over its hump. Then, the camel stretches its front legs to stand throwing you backwards in the makeshift saddle and prompting you to hang on for dear life. Finally, the camel extends its hind legs jerking you forward. So, as long as you’ve got something to hold onto, no sweat.

Riding the camel as it ambled along the sand was easy enough. Its slow rolling gait allowed us to enjoy our lofted views of the dunes and take pictures of the desert around us. Granted, going up and down the dunes was a little bumpier than striding majestically on top of their ridges.

Camel Riding in Merzouga Sand Dunes
Camel Riding in Merzouga Sand Dunes

About thirty minutes into our trek, we stopped and climbed a small dune from which we could view the setting sun. Aaron and I took the obligatory photos to record our presence in the Sahara and then took the opportunity to explore the dunes a bit more on our own.

As we left our fellow camel riders behind, the desert took on a silence that only a place untouched by humans can embody. We listened in awe as the wind drifted over the sand dunes, pulling grains of sand from their peaks with every gust. We watched the sand change colors from a reddish hue to liquid gold. We were also made privy to the life that so expertly hides itself in the desert. Tracks of all different kinds of bugs, lizards, and small mammals lay scattered across the sand.

Aaron was even inspired to sprint up the largest dune in the area for a better vantage point. Can you spot him?

Man on top of Sand Dune in Sahara Desert Morocco
Aaron on top of the Dune

After sunset, our faithful camels brought us safely back to camp where we enjoyed dinner with a performance of traditional Berber music. With our bellies full and our minds processing the new experiences of the day, we set off into the sand dunes once more to admire the night sky.

I can honestly say that I have never seen a night sky as beautiful as the one over the Sahara. The limited number of humans and very little light pollution in the area made it so that we could see every star in the sky. Millions upon millions of stars twinkled down at us! The milky way took center stage streaking across the blackness in all its glory.

How sad it is to think that this stunning night sky hovers over the whole world, but we can only see it when we leave all other humans behind. As we embraced this moment, we discussed how grateful we are that such places like the Sahara still exist to showcase nature at its fullest, undiluted potential.

That night we stayed up far too late drinking in the intoxicating sky, but it wasn’t enough. We awoke long before the sun rose to once again experience the stillness of the Sahara and its unbelievable night sky. As we watched the sun rise over the Algerian border, we knew that our time in the Sahara was indeed a life-changing experience.

Couple in Sahara Desert at Sunrise
Sunrise in the Dunes

Our Takeaway: Despite everything humans do to the planet, nature has a way of preserving its true essence. You just have to know where to look.

-Annie, Your Friend at Orange Backpack Travel

South Africa: A Hike Worthy of Legend

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South Africa is a unique nation in terms of its diversity with myriad peoples, cultures, weather, ecosystems, beliefs, and activities. The same can be said for Cape Town, a cosmopolitan gem, one of South Africa’s two capital cities.

Cape Town boasts an amazing array of activities geared toward tourist and local alike. To name a few: Boulders’ Beach to view Jackass Penguins (Yep, that’s what they’re called. Also, they bite!), a scenic drive to Hout Bay and Cape Point at the far reaches of the peninsula; watching seals feast at sunset while savoring your own tasty treat at the Victoria and Alfred Waterfront; a trip to Robben Island (buy your tickets well in advance- tours sell out quickly!); or sipping your way through a tour of the vineyards of the Cape Winelands.

Our most memorable experience was hiking to the top of Table Mountain, the mammoth mass of rock towering over the city, sporting a mysteriously flat top that is often shrouded with reaching tendrils of white cloud crawling down its steep slopes.

This bizarre combination of theatrical weather phenomena makes the mountain come alive, its temperament ever-changing and unpredictable.

We originally planned to take the cable car to the top of Table Mountain. It was a clear and sunny day. Those ever-present clouds veiling the top had even decided to slither back to their unknown origin. However, the winds at the top of the flat expanse proved too strong, causing the cable car to close and us to stand at the base, settling for a less grand photo of the bay below and cursing our ill luck.

Such is the fate of a tourist with a limited amount of time at hand.

But the call of the mountain was too great. We resolved that afternoon, along with three friends of ours, to attempt the to hike to the top.

We hired a cab to take us from our hotel to the base of the cable car. The cab driver informed us that it was still closed due to high winds and agreed to take us to the trailhead instead.

Before continuing the story, we should mention that we live in the high mountains of Colorado, hike often, and consider ourselves to be in good physical shape. We thought that an hour and a half hike to the top would be no problem for us.

Our taxi driver took us to the less strenuous of the two trails, vehemently assuring us that this was the path most people took. In retrospect, his insistence on taking us to the easy trail should have been Clue #1 that this hike was maybe more than we bargained for.

Clue #2 came from the local gentlemen at the base of the trail inquiring whether we carried enough water with us. They said two liters each was the minimum necessary. We were confident that we had brought enough and suspected that the gentlemen were simply trying to sell bottles of water to unwitting tourists.

The bright sunny morning turned overcast in the afternoon, giving us relief from the African sun. It didn’t take us long to admit that, had it been a hot, sunny day, we absolutely would have needed the full two liters of water each!

The trail to the top of Table Mountain, turned out to be less of a “path” and more of an endless flight of stone stairs (think Lord of the Rings). Some parts were steep enough they required scrambling with both hands. The best part of the trail was that the most treacherous switchbacks were flanked with barbed wire fence, so if you slipped, you had the added bonus of your skin being ruthlessly punctured by the very fence designed to stop your fall down a jagged rock face.

Man Hiking Table Mountain Cape Town South Africa

We were clearly a long way from Colorado! Hiking in Africa was on a whole different level.

We took our time and made it to the top two and a half hours later, our spirits high with the feeling of accomplishment. The clouds at the top were minimal, and the view of the city was spectacular! The grueling hike was well worth it.

View of Cape Town from Top of Table Mountain

The best part of this whole adventure was that the cable car had opened while we were slogging our way up the mountain. We were all thrilled beyond belief that we didn’t have to hike down as well!

Our takeaways from this excursion: Take heed of the locals. They know their stuff. Both the cab driver and the water-sellers knew their business. We did well to take their advice.

We can’t even begin to imagine what the more difficult trail was like! This one was legendary enough!

-Annie, Your Friend at Orange Backpack Travel

Zimbabwe: A Lesson in the Rules

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Recently, we journeyed to Southern Africa on an adventure to experience the cultures and natural beauty of the African continent. One of our stops was an incredible safari lodge in Zambezi National Park adjacent to Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe. The lodge stood alone, several miles out of town overlooking a flourishing watering hole.

We spent our several days there with our eyes glued to the water, fascinated by the warthogs, kudu, baboons, and elephants who came to quench their thirst.

View of Water Hole from Victoria Falls Safari Lodge in Zambezi National Park Zimbabwe
Zambezi National Park, Zimbabwe

Zimbabwe proved to be quite a hot and dry country with temperatures easily soaring past 100°F. The heat drove the hotel guests to mimic the animals and wallow in the hotel pool. The pool itself was delightful, a small two-tiered set of pools with a waterfall in between. It was designed to look as natural as possible, stone trimmings and plants flanking the slightly murky water.

On our first evening at the lodge we decided a late night swim under the stars was just the ticket. Unfortunately, we discovered that the pool closed at 4pm each day, preventing our midnight dip. The rebel in me wanted to say, “What are they going to do if we do go in the pool after hours? Kick us out? Nah!”

That rebellious side was forced to simmer down, however, in the face of fatigue from a day of touring the area surrounding Victoria Falls. Instead, we agreed to be rule-abiding hotel guests and visit the pool the following day during its open hours.

Annie and Aaron at Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe
Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe

The wait was worth it! The cool waters served as a healing balm on my scorched skin. Watching the wild animals frequent the watering hole as we sipped cold beer and lounged pool-side was the highlight of a fabulous safari lodge experience! Thanks Zimbabwe!

On our last morning, we were enjoying a scrumptious breakfast on the open veranda, when we noticed several concerned hotel staff members peering quizzically into the depths of the pool. The staff piqued our interest even more when they produced a long pole with a substantial wire loop protruding from the end.

We started discussing the possibility of a drowned monkey or the like when Aaron saw a relatively small (5 foot!) crocodile slither across the bottom of the pool. This revelation was made even more shocking by the dawning realization that we had been swimming in that same water not twelve hours before. To make matters even more disturbing, I am absolutely positive that we hadn’t checked the pool for unexpected visitors before we dove in. It turned out that the crocodile crawled into the pool sometime after it had closed the day before. Fortunately, we had not broken the rules and gone for that evening swim. We might have unwittingly disturbed a toothy crocodile!

We were highly entertained for the next hour watching the crocodile extraction. It was quite a process.The crocodile escaped the first time staff managed to drag it to the pool deck and dove back into the waters of temporary freedom after the metal loop broke! The staff finally succeed in removing the reptile from the pool on the second attempt and returned it to the great Zambezi River where it belonged.

This experience taught us two very important points to keep in mind during your travels. One, rules are often set in place for good reasons that may not be apparent to mere tourists. Two, always check the bottom of the pool before jumping in!

-Annie, Your Friend at Orange Backpack Travel