Botswana: Safari – The Untold Story

Chobe National Park:

Many people dream of going on safari. The idea of jumping in an open-sided safari vehicle and racing to see as many wild animals as possible is where most safari dreams begin.

As someone who had dreamed of experiencing a safari first hand for as long as I can remember, I was beyond thrilled when the stars finally aligned for us to take a trip to South Africa, Swaziland, Zimbabwe, and Botswana.

Herd of Elephants with Baby Elephants in Chobe National Park Botswana
Chobe, Botswana

Safari Wake Up Call:

Most safaris begin long before dawn with a brutally early wake up call at 4:00am. When the alarm sounded, I groaned, rolled my eyes, and thought to myself “I can’t believe I paid for this type of vacation!”

Bleary-eyed with our camera slung over my shoulder, my husband and I made our way down to breakfast in the hotel lobby. It turned out that breakfast meant a cup of tea and a to-go box of breakfast treats that we could eat on the drive to the park.

Hippo Wallowing in Mud Chobe National Park Botswana
Hippo Wallowing in the Mud

Traveling to Chobe National Park:

Temperatures in the early morning out in the African bush lean toward the cool side. The air felt even cooler as the wind whipped against my skin while the open-sided safari vehicle raced toward the park entrance. All thoughts of eating my boxed breakfast disappeared as I threw on every layer I had thought to bring and huddled against the cold.

Fortunately, the adrenaline rush fueled by a promising day of wildlife photography was more than enough to remind me why I signed up for a safari vacation.

Entrance Sign at Chobe National Park Kasane Botswana
Entrance of Chobe National Park

The Impala Lesson:

On our very first early morning safari drive, our first animal sighting was a small herd of impalas. We expressed our excitement with a series of “Ooohs, ahhhs, and Look at that!” and asked our driver to pull over so we could take photos.

He obliged, but he didn’t bother to hide his exasperation. He told us he would stop this one time specifically for impalas but that was it. He said they were so common that we would likely see hundreds more before the day was over.

We all happily snapped away, thrilled at photographing such a magnificent creature so close to the road.

Male Impala on Grassland in Chobe National Park
Male Impala

The further we drove into the park, the more we realized our guide was right. Impalas were everywhere!!! It dawned on us that our excitement over seeing our first impala was akin to being ecstatic over seeing a cow on the side of the road in the Midwest!

Breakfast on Safari:

When we finally did stop for-breakfast, it was the side-of-the-road quick bite variety. My appetite had long-since vanished with the excitement of the drive, but it was nice to enjoy a hot cup of tea provided by our guide.

Safari Guide Serving a Bush Breakfast in Chobe National Park Botswana
Breakfast in the Bush

I will admit that the boxed breakfast provided by the hotel went untouched at the bottom of the safari vehicle. Oh well. I suppose the lesson here is that sometimes meals get forgotten in the excitement of travel.

Photography on Safari:

Before we left for Southern Africa, I invested in a brand new Nikon DSLR camera with an extra 200mm zoom lens. They were totally worth it. I can’t stress enough how important it was to have that extra zoom.

The reasons for this are twofold: First, the zoom lens allowed me to capture photos of animals at a respectful distance. Second, the zoom lens served as a pair of binoculars, magnifying the wildlife for the best views possible.

Three Young Male Lions Seen on Safari in Chobe National Park
Young Male Lions

Safari Sunset Cruise:

Another option for viewing Africa’s stunning wildlife is by boat on a safari cruise. In Botswana, we were able to take several sunset safari cruises on the Chobe River in Chobe National Park.

In my opinion, a safari cruise is more relaxed than a safari drive. When viewing animals overland the ride can get quite bumpy due to imperfections in the road. The locals called this an “African Massage.” Sailing serenely on a river alleviates those discomforts entirely. Plus, on a boat we had the option to get up and move around for better views.

Even though we saw many of the same animals on the cruise and drive, I appreciated the different perspective of each. For example, on the boat we were able to get much closer to hippos, and we witnessed elephants swimming across the river.

Hippos Photographed on Sunset River Cruise on Chobe River Botswana
Hippos in the Chobe River
Sunset over Chobe River in Botswana
Sunset in Chobe National Park

Safari is Worth It!

Overall, despite the early mornings and sometimes uncomfortable conditions, I wholeheartedly believe that going on a safari is well worth the money and effort! It is unforgettable. If taking a safari is on your bucket list, I say “Go for it!”

-Annie, Your Friend at Orange Backpack Travel

Ecuador: You did WHAT in the Amazon?

“You did what in the Amazon?” my mother asked, her eyebrows sky-high as we regaled my parents with tales of our honeymoon.

In a spur-of-the-moment decision, we had chosen Ecuador as our honeymoon destination. The country hadn’t even crossed our minds until I stumbled upon an irresistible trip through Travelzoo, a travel deal watch list I subscribe to. The trip was an eight-day guided tour of the central part of Ecuador via Gate 1 Travel. I reviewed the trip itinerary, proposed the idea to my fiancé, and we booked the trip the next day.

To start the trip, we flew from Denver to Miami, where we spent the first night of our honeymoon sleeping on the airport floor. It was not the ideal way to start a vacation, let alone a honeymoon, but I must confess we planned it that way. Our flight arrived late in the evening in Miami, and our next flight left at 6:00am. We agreed to save a bit of money and camp out in the terminal. We did not anticipate, however, that we would arrive too late in the evening to get through security to sleep at our gate. Our dreams of airport chairs without armrests vanished, and we made do with the cold, hard linoleum floor just outside the ticketing counter.

The next morning, we boarded the plane as two very tired and somewhat cranky newlyweds. After a brief layover in Bogota, Columbia, we finally arrived in Quito, Ecuador’s capital city.

The city sits high up in the monolithic Andes, a mountain range dotted with active volcanoes and filled with the rich history of the Incan Empire. We went on a city tour to explore the Plaza de la Independencia, the historic main square, and Compania de Jesus, a gilded Jesuit church, to learn a bit about the Spanish Conquistadores who conquered the Incan people in the 1500s. We also took a trip to the Middle of the World to straddle the Equator, placing one foot in the northern hemisphere and the other in the southern hemisphere.

Plaza de la Independencia in Quito Ecuador
Plaza de la Independencia, Quito, Ecuador
Couple Sitting on Equator at Middle of the World Monument in Ecuador
Middle of the World: At the Equator

Next, we headed to Otavalo, a small lakeside town with a famous handicrafts market where we purchased several alpaca wool blankets. The third day of our trip, the tour took us through the Cloud Forest to Papallacta, an intimate resort built over a natural hot spring and nestled high in the Andes. We relaxed in the thermal pools and got a couple’s massage, finally participating in what seemed like a typical honeymoon activity.

The highlight of the trip was our stay in Casa del Suizo, an eco-lodge on a private rainforest reserve deep in the Amazon. The only way to access the lodge was by boat via the Napo River, a tributary to the Amazon River. The lodge was surrounded by jungle so dense that a person would easily lose all sense of direction within ten feet of entering the underbrush.

Casa del Suizo Lodge on Napo River in Ecuador Amazon
Casa del Suizo, Ecuadorian Amazon

Our tour guide went above and beyond and got us the luxury suite since it was our honeymoon. This deluxe room turned out to be a private cabin at the very edge of the hotel complex, complete with mosquito nets, vaulted ceilings, and screens for windows. We even had our own veranda with a hammock overlooking the river. It sure beat sleeping on the floor of Miami International Airport.

By now we were convinced that Ecuador was a hidden gem in South America. It’s geographic diversity and the rich culture of its people, both modern and indigenous, were incomparable to anything we had experienced before. To put it simply, Ecuador had it all.

Man Relaxing in Hammock in Ecuador Amazon
Aaron in the Amazon

That evening, the rainforest lived up to its name, and the sky unleashed a deluge. We fell asleep listening to the sounds of the jungle compete with the rain.

The next morning, we took a boat upriver and participated in a guided walk through the rainforest. From the moment we got off the boat, the earth’s abundance and diversity were inescapable. I had never before experienced an environment where every inch of space was occupied. Plants grew on top of each other and trees grew extra roots to shift their position in the jungle, all to compete for precious sunlight. Insects and birds zoomed through the air unconcerned with our presence. Enormous termite nests hung along the path. A small brown tree frog watched as we passed by. Monkeys skittered through the canopy above.

We, as human beings, were superfluous in the Amazon. That much was clear.

Grasshopper in Amazon Rainforest Ecuador
Grasshopper
Man Next to Large Termite Nest Amazon Rainforest
Giant Termite Nest

Our rainforest tour concluded with a raft trip back down the river on traditional balsa wood rafts which were constructed by loosely strapping several logs together with rope.

We climbed aboard the raft with a couple of our tour mates, sat down on the logs, and drifted out into the current. Our combined weight forced the rudimentary raft to sink about six inches below the water, which meant that our legs and hips went underwater as well. It was a rafting experience unlike any I had had before. It felt more like rafting through the river than on the river.

Five minutes into the float, we heard a shout and watched one of our tour mates jump into the river, declaring that he would swim back to the hotel. Everyone looked at the gentleman like he was crazy. The river was in fact a tributary to the Amazon!

Our guide, however, seemed unconcerned. She explained that the rain the previous evening had caused the river to rise about ten feet, meaning there was little chance of getting stuck on something underwater. She also said that most of the deadly river predators preferred still or slow-moving water and were not likely to be swimming in this rushing torrent.

That was all Aaron needed to hear. He took off his shoes, handed me his hat and dove in. I watched in disbelief, plagued with horrific thoughts of piranhas, giant anacondas, and unknown Amazonian river beasts. Aaron, on the other hand, was frolicking like he was in a swimming pool, hollering to the wild with a joyful smile on his face.

The river’s current started to pull Aaron faster than the slow-moving balsa raft. In dramatic fashion, I thought to myself, “I don’t want to lose my husband. If we die in the Amazon, so be it.”

So, I jumped in too.

Pushing all thoughts of piranhas from my mind, I swam to catch up to Aaron. As we floated down the river, we held hands and grinned like fools. This was what a honeymoon was meant to be! A memorable life-or-death adventure taken together!

The river was indeed moving tremendously fast, and within ten minutes we were swimming for the beach in front of the lodge. The rest of the tour group finally caught up to us at the lodge, all exclaiming their disbelief at our bravery.

View of Napo River from Casa del Suizo Ecuador Amazon Rainforest
Napo River, Amazon

When we later recounted this story to my parents, they also struggled to believe we went swimming in the Amazon: “You did what in the Amazon?!”

It was an unforgettable honeymoon indeed!

Our takeaway from the Amazon: Sometimes you just have to go for it!

-Annie, Your Friend at Orange Backpack Travel

Zimbabwe: A Lesson in the Rules

Recently, we journeyed to Southern Africa on an adventure to experience the cultures and natural beauty of the African continent. One of our stops was an incredible safari lodge in Zambezi National Park adjacent to Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe. The lodge stood alone, several miles out of town overlooking a flourishing watering hole.

We spent our several days there with our eyes glued to the water, fascinated by the warthogs, kudu, baboons, and elephants who came to quench their thirst.

View of Water Hole from Victoria Falls Safari Lodge in Zambezi National Park Zimbabwe
Zambezi National Park, Zimbabwe

Zimbabwe proved to be quite a hot and dry country with temperatures easily soaring past 100°F. The heat drove the hotel guests to mimic the animals and wallow in the hotel pool. The pool itself was delightful, a small two-tiered set of pools with a waterfall in between. It was designed to look as natural as possible, stone trimmings and plants flanking the slightly murky water.

On our first evening at the lodge we decided a late night swim under the stars was just the ticket. Unfortunately, we discovered that the pool closed at 4pm each day, preventing our midnight dip. The rebel in me wanted to say, “What are they going to do if we do go in the pool after hours? Kick us out? Nah!”

That rebellious side was forced to simmer down, however, in the face of fatigue from a day of touring the area surrounding Victoria Falls. Instead, we agreed to be rule-abiding hotel guests and visit the pool the following day during its open hours.

Annie and Aaron at Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe
Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe

The wait was worth it! The cool waters served as a healing balm on my scorched skin. Watching the wild animals frequent the watering hole as we sipped cold beer and lounged pool-side was the highlight of a fabulous safari lodge experience! Thanks Zimbabwe!

On our last morning, we were enjoying a scrumptious breakfast on the open veranda, when we noticed several concerned hotel staff members peering quizzically into the depths of the pool. The staff piqued our interest even more when they produced a long pole with a substantial wire loop protruding from the end.

We started discussing the possibility of a drowned monkey or the like when Aaron saw a relatively small (5 foot!) crocodile slither across the bottom of the pool. This revelation was made even more shocking by the dawning realization that we had been swimming in that same water not twelve hours before. To make matters even more disturbing, I am absolutely positive that we hadn’t checked the pool for unexpected visitors before we dove in. It turned out that the crocodile crawled into the pool sometime after it had closed the day before. Fortunately, we had not broken the rules and gone for that evening swim. We might have unwittingly disturbed a toothy crocodile!

We were highly entertained for the next hour watching the crocodile extraction. It was quite a process.The crocodile escaped the first time staff managed to drag it to the pool deck and dove back into the waters of temporary freedom after the metal loop broke! The staff finally succeed in removing the reptile from the pool on the second attempt and returned it to the great Zambezi River where it belonged.

This experience taught us two very important points to keep in mind during your travels. One, rules are often set in place for good reasons that may not be apparent to mere tourists. Two, always check the bottom of the pool before jumping in!

-Annie, Your Friend at Orange Backpack Travel